Posted by on July 25, 2011 at 6:20 PM under
Before deciding on a band sealer, ask yourself the following questions.
This post will discuss whether a band sealer is right for you and what type of band sealer will work best.
Q: Do you already have your bag?
A: Make sure you have your bag before looking at sealers. The bag material will determine what sealer will work.
Q: Should you purchase a band sealer?
A: Our band sealers can seal materials 3mil-10mil meaning band sealers will seal just about any thermoplastic material including PE, PPE, stand up pouches, gusseted bags (used for coffee and tea), and moisture barrier bags. Because bags are placed on a conveyor system, the width of the bag does not matter. If you are looking for increased efficiency in your packaging process, then we recommend looking into a band sealer.
Q: What is the difference between a horizontal and vertical model?
A: Vertical band sealers typically seal small solid products (ex: powders, grains, coffee) and liquids. In addition, if your customer will be packaging his/her product using a stand up pouch, a vertical band sealer will work best. Horizontal models work best when you can lay flat your pouch.
Q: Do you want any printing on your bags? Dry-coding vs. embossing?
A: Our band sealers have the ability to emboss or dry ink code bags. Embossingcontinually embosses characters directly on the bag. Embossing shows up best on foil bags. Dry ink coding prints using a roller with heat activated ink transfers.
Q: Is there a preference of production running right to left or left to right?
A: Our band sealers can seal in a right to left direction or left to right direction. Choose the right sealer based on your preferences.
We do not carry band sealers, but if you are in the process of looking for a band sealer, please contact us and we can refer you to some distributors.
Posted by on June 21, 2011 at 2:57 PM under
Continuous band sealers provide the fastest sealing operation with an unlimited length. Bags are simply fed into sealer while resting on a conveyor belt. Several models are available with features such as horizontal seal head, vertical seal head, tilting seal head, left or right feed, gas purging, and/or coding and imprinting.
If you are finding that a hand sealer, foot sealer, or even an automatic sealer is unable to fulfill your production needs, you may need to think about upgrading your packaging equipment to a band sealer.
Please check out this video for a better idea of how a band sealer works.
Posted by on January 21, 2011 at 2:03 PM under
We created this troubleshooting guide to help with our most frequently asked questions regarding sealers.
Impulse sealers (hand, foot, automatic) work in a similar manner - often, if you are having a problem with your sealer, the solution can be found in the following parts: heating element, PTFE adhesive, PTFE cover, microswitch, mounting spring, and/or timer. Let us know if you have a problem that isn't listed in this guide and we can try and assist you.
- Check element and PTFE cover and adhesive.
- Element: This is the wire (flat or round) that heats up to seal or cut the bag/film. Remove the PTFE cover and check that the wire is not discolored, bent, or broken.
- PTFE Adhesive: This is the 1/2" piece with an adhesive backing UNDER the heating element. It should extend past the seal area 1/2" on either side because it is the barrier between the metal machine and the metal heating element. For the PTFE adhesive, you must replace the bottom sealing strip whenever you change the element. The adhesive serves as a barrier between the heating element and the sealer's body. When the sealer's heating element has burned through the bottom adhesive and arc'ed on the sealer's body, the element will break as well as destroy the timer.
- PTFE Cover: The PTFE cover that goes over the heating element must be whole to prevent the plastic bags or film from sticking to the element. For the PTFE cover, we recommend changing the cover BEFORE it burns through. As the cover wears, you will see a discoloration where it comes into contact with the element, you may also notice that your element is sticking to the thermoplastic material you are sealing. You can maneuver the cover back and forth to allow the element to come into contact with the unused portions of the PTFE cover. If you are sealing/cutting a thicker plastic material (higher amount of heat) you may go through a lot of PTFE covers.
- Listen for "click" from microswitch when pushing bar down. This click should occur right before the upper bar comes into contact with the lower. If there is no click try the following:
- Hand Sealer: Slightly bend metal switch lever so that when arm of sealer is brought down, the lever makes contact with microswitch and a click can be heard.
- Foot Sealer: Small bolt for limit switch must be tightened as needed to make contact with the microswitch.
- Auto Sealers: A 3.5" screw that is mounted on upper jaw must be loosened so that it will make contact with microswitch which is mounted on left side of hinge bracket.
- Mounting Spring: Make sure that the spring the element mounts on is intact. Replace if damaged. Please check also that the mounting spring is not rusted or worn in any way as this will prevent the element from conducting heat.
- Timer Light: The light on the timer should come on briefly when the seal bar is brought down for sealing. If it does not come on, the timer PC board probably needs replacing.
Posted by on December 6, 2010 at 5:27 PM under
Many folks have asked us how to change the heating wire and strip of their FoodSavers. While not all FoodSavers are the same, we have come up with a basic instruction guide based on the FoodSaver V2040. Please tailor our instructions accordingly based on your FoodSaver model. You can also download the instruction sheet here.
Removing the Kit
1. Remove the Lower Base. Turn the sealer over and remove the eight screws holding the lower based and upper unit together. (One screw is found where the power cord is located.)
2. Remove the PTFE Adhesive (Sealing Strip). Open the upper jaw of the vacuum sealer and gently peel the PTFE adhesive (sealing strip) from the heating element. You may have to push some of the PTFE adhesive through from the lower base.
3. Removing the Heating Element (Heating Wire). Removing the heating element may be a bit tricky and requires some patience. Using either your fingers or a pair of small pliers, pull the spring hook from the hole of the heating element. When you release on end of the element from the spring hook, the other end will release easily.
Installing the New Kit
1. Replacing the Heating Element. Attach the new element to the spring hook and run the element along the upper base of the vacuum sealer. Attach the other end of the element to the spring hook on the other side.
2. Replacing the PTFE Adhesive. Remove the backing on the adhesive. Apply the adhesive over the element.
*A good rule of thumb is to replace the PTFE adhesive (sealing strip) every time you change the element.
Posted by on November 19, 2010 at 5:15 PM under
For the SINBO (DZ-280/A) light commercial vacuum sealer, we have found these directions quite helpful in order to get a great vacuum and seal.
1) Turn the power switch
off & open the top cover by lifting the lid gently. You may have to unlock
the right side and left side lock. Push
down on one or both left &/or right corner spots marked lock to release the
2) Practice a few seals
on your bag before starting the vacuum process to determine the time setting
needed. Adjust the seal time setting for
the bag being sealed. You can start at 3
or 4. After sealing a few packages you
may need to drop down a number or two because it will take less time to seal
additional bags once you have been sealing consecutive bags.
3) Now you can start the
vacuum process - Extend the snorkel/nozzle by pulling the snorkel slide forward
until it locks into place. You will
locate the snorkel in the upper center section of the sealer.
4) Place the filled bag
with one layer below the snorkel and one layer above the snorkel. The bag will sandwich the snorkel. The snorkel will be inside the bag.
5) Close and lock the
cover by pushing down on both the right side and left side lock. You will know
it is locked when you hear it click in place.
6) Turn on the power
7) Tips for getting the
best vacuum: Make sure the product that is in the bag is placed evenly
throughout the bag- best placement is in the center of the bag. This will keep the snorkel from being blocked
by the loose bag. While vacuuming the
bag you may need to rub the layers of the bag between your fingers if the loose
bag blocks the snorkel. The sound will
change when the snorkel is blocked. With
a little practice you will soon be getting the best tightly vacuumed package.
8) After the package
reaches the correct tightness, momentarily push down with both hands on the seal
bar and release and quickly push down again and hold the seal bar with even
pressure until the seal light flashes and you hear the beep that indicates the
seal is complete. The reason that the
seal bar is pushed down and released and quickly pushed down and held is to
prevent the snorkel from being trapped in the sealing area. This is the best
method for allowing the snorkel to retract fully.
9) Push down on both the
right side lock & left side lock until the cover releases and lift the lid
and you can now remove the sealed bag.
10) To seal the next
bag, turn off the power switch and start at step 3) to begin the process of
vacuuming the next bag.
Note: When the SINBO
vacuum sealer gets too hot you will hear a warning sound & the seal will
become irregular. The machine should be turned off & allowed to cool. After
a cool down, the machine will perform normally again. This warning sound is
intended to protect the machine from overheating.
Points to remember
Do not try to extend the
snorkel when the cover is down.
Keep the bag from
blocking the snorkel.
Snorkel must retract
fully before sealing the bag.
Turn off the machine
before starting the next bag.
Here is a downloadable instruction set
Posted by on November 19, 2010 at 5:01 PM under
**Always unplug the unit from the power source before making any repairs.
Removing the Replacement Kit
1. Remove the PTFE Cover.
Loosen the screws that hold the PTFE cover plates on both sides of the sealer body. It is not necessary to remove the screws completely. Lift the PTFE Cover to expose the heating element.
2. Remove the Heating Element.
On the 4" and 8" hand sealers, the front eyelet is held on by a screw and the rear eyelet is hooked on a bow spring (mounting spring). Apply pressure to the heating element and unscrew the element screw (found at the front eyelet). Lift the element off the rear bow spring.
For the 12", 16", and 20" hand sealers, eyelets are hooked on by a bow spring on both ends. Remove the element by releasing the eyelet off the front bow spring. Using a screwdriver to flex the bow spring inward will ease the release.
3. Remove the PTFE Adhesive.
Peel the PTFE Adhesive from the sealer's body.
Installing the New Kit
1. Replacing the PTFE Adhesive
Remove the backing on the adhesive. Apply the adhesive to the sealer's body. The adhesive must always extend past the sealing platform by approximately 1/4" to 1/2" on both ends. Note: The PTFE Adhesive works as a barrier between the body and element. Never allow the element to come in direct contact with the sealer body as that will damage the timer.
*A good rule of thumb is to replace the PTFE Adhesive every time you change the element.
2. Replacing the Heating Element
On the 4" and 8" hand sealers, attach the rear eyelet of the element to the bow spring first and then the front eyelet of the element. Apply pressure to the element with your figners when screwing the screw to prevent damage to the element.
On the 12", 16", and 20" hand sealers, attach the rear eyelet of the element to the rear bow spring and position the front eyelet of the element into the front bow spring. Using a screwdriver to flex the bow spring inward will ease the placement of the eyelet into the bow spring. Check the element to ensure it is intact and not loose.
3. Replacing the PTFE Cover
Slide the cover uner the PTFE cover plates on both sides. Tighten the screws on the PTFE cover plates when the PTFE cover is positioned smoothly on top of the element.
Note: The PTFE cover prevents the plastic or any thermoplastic material you are sealing from sticking to the element.
Posted by on November 19, 2010 at 3:29 PM under
1. Plug in power cord and adjust timing dial to desired setting (a good starting point is 2 1/2). For cut and seal (round element), adjust timer to the lowest setting that will seal and cut.
2. Insert contents in bag. Place open end of the bag on the sealing pad.
3. To seal only, bring the sealing arm down (light pressure) on the bag and sealing pad. Keep sealing arm down until the red light turns off, plus an additional 2-4 seconds to set the seal.
3a. Cut and seal operation. While the sealing arm is depressed, tear the package away with your right hand.
4. Example of sealed bag. Cut and seal bags will not have bag material above the seal.
Posted by on September 29, 2010 at 5:25 PM under
Making the right choice when purchasing a sealer to seal your poly bag
There are many different types of sealers available on the market and choosing the right sealer can be overwhelming. Before you make a decision, you should have the answer the following questions:
- What is the width of the opening of poly bag?
- What is the material of my bag? (polyethylene, polypropylene, nylon, Mylar, coated aluminum foil, etc?)
- How thick is my material? (usually quoted in mil thickness)
- How wide do I want my seal to be? (usually 0mm for cut and seal applications, 2mm or 5mm)
We provide a short guide on sealer function, size, speed and heating elements to help you make your decision. Let us know if you have any additional questions.
There are two main types of seales: impulse and or direct heat
Impulse sealers seal poly bags that require a lower temperature to seal. Impulse sealers require no warm up time and only used power when the jaw is lowered. We recommend impulse sealers for any thermoplastic material such as polyethylene (PE) or polypropylene (PP)
Direct heat sealers seal bags that require higher temperature to seal such as coated aluminum foil, Kraft paper, cellophane, mylar, coated PP, and other materials. Direct heat sealers maintain constant heat in both jaws and use power as long as the machine is turned on.
Th size of the sealer depends on the width of the material to be sealed. We recommend adding one inch to the width of your bag for easier handling.
Portable sealers are lightweight, handy and versatile. Sizes, however, are limited. We usually recommend portable sealers for irregular packages or limited work space.
Hand sealers are the most popular sealers given their simplicity and relatively cheaper cost. The sealing bar is lowered manually and sizes available are from 4" - 40". Approximately 6-20 packages can be sealed per minute.
Foot sealers provide a faster sealing operation than hand sealers. The sealing bar is pedestal controlled leaving your hands free. Sizes available are from 12" - 35" and approximately 8-20 packages can be sealed per minute.
Automatic sealers provide an even faster sealing operation than foot sealers. Automatic sealers feature a preset time cycle to allow for a fully continuous automatic operation. Automatic sealers can also be placed in a manual mode and actuated by a food switch. Sizes available from 12" to 30" and approximately 20-50 packages can be sealed per minute.
Band sealers are the most automated sealers available and ideal for high production jobs. Item to be sealed is placed on a moving conveyor. Various options such as horizonal or vertical sealing, right or left side feed, coding and imprinting are available on band sealers.
There are two types of heating elements: round or flat. In most sealers, the round and flat wire can be interchanged. Round wire is mainly used for cut and seal applications where no seam is left. Depending on the width of the flat wire element, sealers are available in 2-3mm, 5mm, 8mm, or 10mm